Tag Archives: robuchon

Saint-Honoré from Le Salon de thé de Robuchon

3 Mar

I tried another pastry from Le Salon de thé de Robuchon, since i went to pick some Macarons. I chose the Saint-Honoré and my friends also tried some pastries: the lemon pie i already tried and a banana cake.

I was disappointed again. Now i know that i will not go there for their pastries anymore (only for the macarons). Ok, first i don’t really like chocolate in pastries, and my Saint-Honoré was filled with a chocolate mousse. But a Saint-Honoré in the “normal way” is filed with vanilla cream, not chocolate one. The mousse in itself is nice but the puffs were too soft, like mashmallows.
A nice part however was the bottom of the pastry with some caramelized pears that were good.

So: the dough wasn’t good, the filling ok (i’m not an expert when it comes to chocolate since i’m not really fond of it). The main problem is that it’s half a normal Saint-Honoré in size and the price is as high as in France. So not this is not worth it.

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Salon de thé Robuchon

3 Dec

Maybe i was expecting too much of this salon de thé, i don’t know, but i must beforehand tell you that the review is gonna be quite harsh. After all, Robuchon is a cook, not a pastry chef, i might have forgotten that on my way… What a big disappointment. I won’t go there again.

The shop is nice, like the restaurant, and the staff also nice. They smile a little when i said that i wanted the 2 person set for myself, but they didn’t say anything. The customers are mainly foreigners or English-speaking Taiwanese (each time i go to restaurant i seat near Taiwanese that always speak in English, strange isn’t it?…)

The set for 1040 TWD, includes 2 pastries, 2 macarons, 2 drinks and 2 madeleines. Or so they said: i had financiers instead of madeleines…hum they should do what’s written or at least inform the customer before: First mistake.
On the website it’w written they have Coffee Religieuse (the main reason i came), and they hadn’t (not because it was already sold out, just because it wasn’t the season anymore): Second mistake for a salon de thé of this level. It takes 2 minutes to change your menu on your website.
So i chose a tiramisu and a lemon pie, with 2 espresso. What’s nice is that they ask you if you want your 2 espressos at the same time or one after the other.

Espresso, like in the restaurant, they were nice and it’s always a pleasure to have nice coffee once in a while here.


The lemon pie. I think the jelly layer they use to protect the cake (i don’t know its name) was too thick, it spoils the lemon custard. This was nice, but i would have prefer it with a stronger taste. Then you had a mousse inside. It was nearly tasteless. The little insert of lemon was nice, that was the only thing that had a lemon taste strong enough to call the pastry a lemon pie. And the pastry dough was again tasteless. It usually have some almond taste, or a taste, but here it didn’t have anything special. Maybe because it wasn’t cook enough or because the cake was too cold? I don’t know, but the lemon pie wasn’t strong enough.

The tiramisu. Nice in look, but so not convenient to eat. The chocolate layer was too hot, so the chocolate was soft. What was unacceptable was that my pastry was damaged on the top. It either means the pastry was not well-conserved since it was made, or that they had a problem while tempering the chocolate. For the price, in both way i can’t tolerate it. The mascarpone cream was light, but again, bland. Concerning coffee, it had some taste, the biscuit was well impregnated, but i would have expected a stronger coffee taste. And the chocolate made it difficult to eat it, so you couldn’t eat all the layers at the same time (which is bad, as if in a mille-feuilles you couldn’t eat all the layers at the same time). There was too much mascarpone for the coffee, that’ why the overall was not strong enough. My mother’s one is a way better, and i’ve tasted a lot better one elsewhere.

The financiers: too dry. Nothing else to say.

The cannelé. OMG, what a horror. Where did they see that it had so many blisters after being cooked? There was definitely a problem in the way it was heat: the inside was nearly not cooked, while the outside was too cooked. And i don’t talk about the Rum. Where was it? A Cannelé is based with rum, and here the rum was really behind. You could taste it, but i had to focus on it, that was the opposite of the one i had in L’Assiette, what was a way better, or even my mother’s ones. This was a total failure for me.

Luckily for them, they have awesome macarons. Coconuts and Violette one were my favorite. The Coffee one is ok, and the mango not strong enough for me, but maybe it was too cold again (cold kills taste, that’s horrible, you can’t eat pastries if it’s too cold).But they’re even more expensive than Pierre Hermé’s macarons that are the most expensive of Paris, so don’t make me laugh, 80 TWD (2 euros) for a macaron, that’s only because it’s called macarons that they can show those prices.

So as you saw, i was really disappointed. Everything is in the design, the look, but the taste is far behind good pastries in France. Sadaharu Aoki’s pie was a way better. The breads aren’t worth neither compared to Lalos as i already tried them in the restaurant. If you want to show off around foreigners and wealthy people, go there, but if you’re interested in good pastries, well, go to the basement instead and eat at Sadaharu Aoki. That’s all i can say.

This is an average pastry shop with of high quality pastries prices.

Salon de Thé Robuchon
Bellavita 3F
MRT: Taipei City Hall

L’atelier de Robuchon -Taipei

16 Nov

In Bellavita, for my 20th birthday…

Let’s start the review

Mise en bouche
Scramble eggs with some black pepper and brown sugar, and an espuma (i didn’t really get what it was…). Very light, and the eggs were really nice and smooth, that was the first time that i had eggs like this, like a cream.

Le caviar
Caviar with a duck jelly (tasted like foie gras but in jelly) and a mousse under (again i didn’t get it). Sooo yummy. I thought i would like caviar, but that’s soo good. With the jelly the caviar taste isn’t too strong and salty. And the top: you had a pearly spoon.

La truffe blanche d’Alba
The sommelier Benoît told me that they used potatoes from Taiwan that were sweeter than ours. That’s true that they were quite different. However i thought that the foie gras was a little bit too salty compared to the one i’m used to (maybe because of the potatoes since i ate it with it), but it was really smooth and had a nice texture. And the white truffle doesn’t have much taste compared to the black one i think. Maybe i’m not good enough to find the subtility in it, but so far i prefer the black one. I don’t understand why this one is so expensive (there was one guy that was in charge of the truffles, haha he was wearing white clothes and had dyed his hair in white too!).

La langoustine
From Brittany, with an italian ravioli with Espelette chili pepper, Foie gras sauce, white Alba truffle again, and a steamed little green cabbage. Loved the ravioli; but i would have eaten 10 more if i could have. It’s supposed to be the oldest dish of the restaurant. I understand why they keep it. My favorite with the meat.

Le parmesan
A parmesan broth with tiny mushrooms glued together with a beef stuffing. They looked like mini macarons, so cuteeee. And so good! But why did they give a spoon that is so not convenient to scrape the little broth left? Loved it too.
The guy who served it to me was so nice. He saw that i was taking pictures, so he told me if i wantedd to take one with the lid on it before he starts to explain the dish and remove it.

L’amandai
Lemongrass juice, ceraver purée with violet flowers that come from Japan (i can’t remember what the sommelier said, but they’re used as we use some escort, like mustard). The fish is also cooked in the Japanese way, which means that they didn’t flake the fish but rise the scales, which is why the fish is crispy. Delicious. And an espuma with chili pepper.

L’onglet
OMG. So so so good. SO tender. And the juice with it…The best i ever had. Again the sommelier told me that this was an Australian beef that was half Japanese (because Japan doesn’t sell Japanese beef to foreigners, and only sell some of their cows). So this half Japanese beef only drank beer during its life, had a lot of massages and heard classical music to make it relax and let the fat penetrate inside. And after killing it, they used the american way of drying meat, like steak, so that the blood would leave and give the meat more taste. Yeah, all this for my food. Yum. And the famous Robuchon’s purée with half butter and half potatoes, an artichoke, a little carrot (that didn’t taste like one, so i’m not sure that it was one) and a pastoral salad.

Les Fromages: Fourme d’Ambert and Reblochon
Last time i tried a fourme d’Ambert, it was in “Le vieux logis”in a mousse. That was the first time eating the real thing. Quite strong, but nice…. Reblochon is ok, but i prefer the fourme d’ambert. Served with grilled nuts bread. Actually, i prefered the way “Le vieux Logis” put it, because here it was quite simple and plain and quite small. But maybe that’s because Taiwanese may not like cheese so they prepare small pieces.

Le granité
Red wine sauce with blueberries and a chantilly (i think it was a cinnamon chantilly, or something that i put when i made my compote the other time for sure, but again i’m not sure of the spice). And some pistachios. Fresh, nice.

Le sucre
It should have been “La Poire” but i asked to change since there was a profiterole with chocolate and i’m not fond of it. Furthermore “le sucre” was with coffee, so of course i had to try it. It came with a lot of smoke, like a pearl. Really beautiful. The coffee mousse was nice and i loved the game of temperature between the bottom that was cold and nearly like a granité and the top, that was nearly like an espuma. However i think it lacked real material, because it was like only eating an espuma. So of course it was light, but i expected more something i had to bite a little bit at least, not air-like. So nice in taste and fun to eat, but i was disappointed.

Le café
Single Espresso! Moooooooooooouuuuuuuuuuuhhhhaaaaaaa i had forgotten how much i missed it. And a strawberry macaron. Delicious, fresh and creamy.

Les pains
Oh, breads, again i couldn’t restrain myself and ate 12 little breads (OMG i didn’t count them while eating but i really ate a lot! i’m expensive for restaurants concerning breads). There was a bacon one (ate 2), a tomato one (ate 2), croissants (ate 3), mini baguette (2), cheese bread, something maybe like a ciabatta but not sure, and a countryside bread. Overall, they were fairly ok, but certainly not the best i ever had. Some were too hard -too cooked?- (the baguette and the countryside bread) and the croissants were really so-so (and why do they have croissants for diner by the way? i still don’t get it…).

Les vins
Hahaha the sommelier really had some fun to see how little i knew about France geography and wine. But he was quite patient and explained to me. Actually he had his baccalauréat exam in the city i live in France so it was quite fun. He had been living in Asia for 8 years now and doesn’t wish to return to France. He made fun of me since i didn’t know the regions he was talking about when he introduced me the wines. I first took a fruity white wine called “Coteau des Tricastins” (i think it was from 2001). He told me that they changed their name because of the nuclear power plant that was not far from there, and now they’re called Domaine de Grangeneuve.
Then when i finished my glass, he gave me a glass of red wine (for free, isn’t that awesome?), a Ventoux. A nice one too. I still don’t know which one of the two i prefer. As for water, i found some sparkling water: Perrier!

The waiters were also all really nice. We chatted a little, and they were more relaxed when they knew that i was a student (even though they still called me Madame). What’s cute is that they were always asking me if i was already full after each dish, and looked surprised each time i replied thatn i was ok (actually i still could have eaten a lot more). I also met the Chef, an Italian (well, seeing the menu, that’s not a surprise) called Antonio and who’s fluent in French. What i liked is that people are not too stiltled, even some customers are regulars and talk about rugby with the sommelier or call him by his first name. The atmosphere was really nice. And and and….Benoît told me that Robuchon was coming from the 29 to the 3rd of December. Oh oh. It’s gonna be tough, really tough to resist to not come again in december to see him…

However, dreamy dinner comes with a price: 9,493 TWD (8,000 TWD for the menu, the rest for wine, water and VTA). Yeah, that’s not what mastercard tells us with their “ça n’a pas de prix”…

Ho, but as Bulgari is opening in the floor below (yeah, this shopping mall is only for luxury brands…), they give you a bobble of San Pellegrino with a special packaging if you had the degustation menu. So i came back with my sparkling water in a super classy bag! haha

Charlotte au chocolat avec sa crème anglaise

1 Jul

Today, i was going to bake a clafoutis for my friend with the cherries i bought the day before. However, while eating my breakfast, i noticed that i couldn’t check the time…OMG! What to do! The oven was broken!
Panicked, i thought all day long about what i could bake without a oven…and i thought about a Charlotte! At first i wanted to make a Cherry Charlotte, however i needed cheese (i don’t have cheese), and the a Chocolate Charlotte! I’m lucky that my parents like chocolate…

So i mixed 2 recipes: one of chocolate mousse from Robuchon, and one from another book.

This cake isn’t for children, the rum is quite strong in this recipe, so if you don’t like it, use coffee instead of it.

Chocolate Charlotte

Ingredients:
– 180g of dark chocolate
– 6cl of cream
– 30g of butter
– 4 eggs (eggyolks and whites separated)
– 1 table spoon of vanilla sugar
– 45g of ice sugar
– around 45 lady fingers
– 5 table spoons of rum
– 10 table spoons of water
– one Charlotte mold

Chocolate mousse:
Cut the chocolate in small pieces, make it melt in a bain-marie then add the butter and mix well. Put in a big bowl.
Mix in a mixer the eggyolks and the vanilla sugar until it becomes pale and frothy, then add to the chocolate and mix well.
Use the mixer for the cream until it becomes stiff and mix well (again) into the chocolate.
Then stiff the beaten eggs (don’t forget salt), and add the ice sugar little by little while the eggwhites start to get stiff.
Once they’re totally stiff, mix 1/3 into the chocolate with a whisk, and add the rest of the eggwhites little by little with a spatula (don’t break them! otherwise all the recipe will be for nothing). That’s the longest part.

Charlotte:
Mix your rum and water, soak your ladyfingers briefly into this syrup and put into bottom and the sides the mold. Then add your chocolate mousse, and put again some ladyfingers with rum on the top (that will become the bottom in when you’ll serve it). Close your mold.

Put in a fridge for a night.

Custard

Ingredients:
– 5 eggyolks
– 2 vanilla sugar
– 15cl of liquid cream
– 25cl of milk
– 75g of sugar

On the eggyolks, put the vanilla sugar, then bleach. Add to the milk and cream and sugar. Cook it into a pan just before it start to boil. Beware of lumps!

Put in the fridge for a night.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Je devais faire un clafoutis pour mes amis, mais ce matin au petit-déjeuner, horreur! Le four ne marche pas! Arrrgh! Comment faire un gâteau sans four! J’y ai réfléchis toute la journée, et je suis arrivée à la conclusion qu’il ne me restait plus qu’une charlotte. Heureusement que mes parents aiment le chocolat! je ne pouvais pas faire une charlotte aux fruits rouges, n’ayant pas de fromage blanc, et j’avais pensé à une forêt noire, mais là, c’est le kirsch qu’il me manquait…

Pour cette recette, j’ai mélangé la mousse au chocolat amer de Robuchon, et la charlotte d’un autre livre.

Attention, le rhum est assez présent dans cette recette. Ce gâteau est donc déconseillé pour les enfants ou ceux qui n’aiment pas le rhum. Vous pouvez cependant le remplacer par du café.

Charlotte au chocolat

Ingrédients:
-180g de chocolat noir (j’ai pris du 86% et du 70%)
– 6cl de crème fraîche
– 30g de beurre
– 4 gros oeufs (blancs et jaunes séparés)
– 1 cuillère à soupe de sucre vanillé
– 75g de sucre glace
– environ 45 biscuits à la cuillère
– 5 cuillères de rhum
– 10 cuillères d’eau
– 1 moule à charlotte

La mousse au chocolat:
Découper le chocolat en petits morceaux, et faire fondre au bain-marie. Rajouter le beurre et mélanger intimement. Retirer du feu et transvaser dans une grande jatte.
Mélanger le sucre vanillé et les jaune au mixer jusqu’à ce que le mélange soit mousseux et jaune pâle. Intégrer au chocolat et remuer intimement.
Mélanger la crème fraiche froide au mixer jusqu’à ce qu’elle soit ferme et mélanger à la préparation au chocolat.
Monter les blancs en neige (n’oubliez pas le sel!) et rajouter le sucre glace petit à petit à partir du moment où les blancs commencent à être ferme.
Une fois les blancs montés, en intégrer 1/3 au fouet dans le chocolat, et le reste à la spatule, lentement et délicatement (ne les cassez pas!).

Pour le biscuit:
Mélanger le rhum et l’eau, imbiber vos biscuits à la cuillère rapidement et tamiser le fond et les parois du moule avec. Rajouter votre mousse et remettre une couche de biscuits, qui servira de base pour le gâteau une fois retourné. Fermer le couvercle.

Laisser une nuit au réfrigérateur.

Crème Anglaise

Ingrédients:
– 5 jaunes d’oeuf
– 75g de sucre
– 2 sachets de sucre vanillé
– 15 cl de crème fleurette
– 25cl de lait

Verser le sucre vanillé sur les jaunes, blanchir. Rajouter avec le lait, le sucre, la crème. Faire cuire en remuant dans une casserole juste avant l’ébullition. La crème doit laisser une trace sur la spatule si on utilise le doigt. Attention aux grumeaux.

Mettre au frigo pendant une nuit.

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