Tag Archives: pastries

15ème arrondissement

20 Jun

My Taiwanese friends brought me to a French bakery/tearoom near Zhongshan Junior High School MRT.

The shop was nice, i liked the bright colors. I chose a cake called “Café-noix” (coffee-walnuts) in which unfortunately you could only taste chocolate flavor, while it shouldn’t be there (i originally chose it because it didn’t have chocolate).

There were walnuts in the biscuit, but the coffee flavor was totally non-existent. Maybe it was supposed to be in the flavorless grey cream (not really appealling by the way), but the chocolate mousse overtook all the dessert flavor. It was also too thick to be really nice and not creamy and melting as it should for a mousse. As an entremet, a finer layer of mousse would have been better. So i don’t recommand taking this “Café-noix”.

However, i tried my Taiwanese friend dessert, which was supposed to be only chocolate, but it turned out it had a nice coffee flavor. Actually, i prefered his dessert and he prefered mine… My other friend tries a “Raspberry Mont-blanc”. The raspberry flavor was nice, but the chestnut cream was a too thick. 

So just be aware that the names are kinda tricky. Overall, it’s not the best bakery in town, but it has fair prices for the quality.

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Boite de Bijou

9 Dec

I wanted to try it. I asked for a Far Breton, a Gâteau Basque and a Chocolate Kougelhof. I asked if i could eat there, and they told me ok. However if you wan to eat the cakes, you have to buy a drink (and when the drink is more expensive than the cake, it’s slightly bothering. Otherwise the shop is really nice and cozy and the cakes are well displayed. With Wendel it’s my favorite concerning the design of the shop.

The far breton was sooo small, only for one person (which is great in my case). Only a single prunce inside the far. The flan was nice and well done.

The chocolate-orange Kougelhof was also nice. Maybe a little too smooth because usually it’s a little harder (here you could squeeze it like a crêpe), but the taste was there. I’ll try the Panetton next time, and maybe the “Galette des rois” since it was nice.

The Gâteau Basque…Ok, this is a little bit special. Because i was expecting a real Gâteau Basque, that i have been waiting for more than 3 months now. SO i was really eager to try it. But tadam, when i cut it…no custard. I was sooooo disapointed. There were Maroons instead inside. WTF! Maroon in a Gâteau Basque? Have you ever seen that? I was thinking that again it was one of the Taiwanese thing and i was really getting fed up with it, but actually the taste was quite nice. The maroons are melting in the mouth, and the cake in itself is harder that a real Gâteau Basque, so it goes well and it’s not too heavy. Of course i wasn’t satisfied because it wasn’t the real one, but if you don’t take it for a Gâteau Basque, that’s good.

So far that’s my favorite with Sadaharu Aoki, but i haven’t really tried pastries yet, only cakes, so that’s not the same. I have to check the pastries next time. However the bread was too cooked, you can tell by the look, so i would rather go to Lalos. As in France: a good bakery is not a good pastry shop! (except for Des Gâteaux & du Pain).
I also saw that some MOF confiserie have been there and that their pastry chef was one of their students.

Lizhu Road ln 109
MRT: Liuzhangli

Salon de thé Robuchon

3 Dec

Maybe i was expecting too much of this salon de thé, i don’t know, but i must beforehand tell you that the review is gonna be quite harsh. After all, Robuchon is a cook, not a pastry chef, i might have forgotten that on my way… What a big disappointment. I won’t go there again.

The shop is nice, like the restaurant, and the staff also nice. They smile a little when i said that i wanted the 2 person set for myself, but they didn’t say anything. The customers are mainly foreigners or English-speaking Taiwanese (each time i go to restaurant i seat near Taiwanese that always speak in English, strange isn’t it?…)

The set for 1040 TWD, includes 2 pastries, 2 macarons, 2 drinks and 2 madeleines. Or so they said: i had financiers instead of madeleines…hum they should do what’s written or at least inform the customer before: First mistake.
On the website it’w written they have Coffee Religieuse (the main reason i came), and they hadn’t (not because it was already sold out, just because it wasn’t the season anymore): Second mistake for a salon de thé of this level. It takes 2 minutes to change your menu on your website.
So i chose a tiramisu and a lemon pie, with 2 espresso. What’s nice is that they ask you if you want your 2 espressos at the same time or one after the other.

Espresso, like in the restaurant, they were nice and it’s always a pleasure to have nice coffee once in a while here.


The lemon pie. I think the jelly layer they use to protect the cake (i don’t know its name) was too thick, it spoils the lemon custard. This was nice, but i would have prefer it with a stronger taste. Then you had a mousse inside. It was nearly tasteless. The little insert of lemon was nice, that was the only thing that had a lemon taste strong enough to call the pastry a lemon pie. And the pastry dough was again tasteless. It usually have some almond taste, or a taste, but here it didn’t have anything special. Maybe because it wasn’t cook enough or because the cake was too cold? I don’t know, but the lemon pie wasn’t strong enough.

The tiramisu. Nice in look, but so not convenient to eat. The chocolate layer was too hot, so the chocolate was soft. What was unacceptable was that my pastry was damaged on the top. It either means the pastry was not well-conserved since it was made, or that they had a problem while tempering the chocolate. For the price, in both way i can’t tolerate it. The mascarpone cream was light, but again, bland. Concerning coffee, it had some taste, the biscuit was well impregnated, but i would have expected a stronger coffee taste. And the chocolate made it difficult to eat it, so you couldn’t eat all the layers at the same time (which is bad, as if in a mille-feuilles you couldn’t eat all the layers at the same time). There was too much mascarpone for the coffee, that’ why the overall was not strong enough. My mother’s one is a way better, and i’ve tasted a lot better one elsewhere.

The financiers: too dry. Nothing else to say.

The cannelé. OMG, what a horror. Where did they see that it had so many blisters after being cooked? There was definitely a problem in the way it was heat: the inside was nearly not cooked, while the outside was too cooked. And i don’t talk about the Rum. Where was it? A Cannelé is based with rum, and here the rum was really behind. You could taste it, but i had to focus on it, that was the opposite of the one i had in L’Assiette, what was a way better, or even my mother’s ones. This was a total failure for me.

Luckily for them, they have awesome macarons. Coconuts and Violette one were my favorite. The Coffee one is ok, and the mango not strong enough for me, but maybe it was too cold again (cold kills taste, that’s horrible, you can’t eat pastries if it’s too cold).But they’re even more expensive than Pierre Hermé’s macarons that are the most expensive of Paris, so don’t make me laugh, 80 TWD (2 euros) for a macaron, that’s only because it’s called macarons that they can show those prices.

So as you saw, i was really disappointed. Everything is in the design, the look, but the taste is far behind good pastries in France. Sadaharu Aoki’s pie was a way better. The breads aren’t worth neither compared to Lalos as i already tried them in the restaurant. If you want to show off around foreigners and wealthy people, go there, but if you’re interested in good pastries, well, go to the basement instead and eat at Sadaharu Aoki. That’s all i can say.

This is an average pastry shop with of high quality pastries prices.

Salon de Thé Robuchon
Bellavita 3F
MRT: Taipei City Hall

Sadaharu Aoki Taipei

7 Nov

When i start to get in lack of French Pastries, i become a real bother to people around me. So, i went to a French bakery get my shot of sugar (yeah despite the name, it’s French: a Japanese baker that studied in France and has his shop there).

I started with a “quiche lorraine” and a cold Mocha tea. A funny thing in Taiwan in general, is that when they say that you have salad with your dish, they mean ONE leaf of salad. Don’t expect a proper salad. It just doesn’t exist. Then i tried the “Tarte caramel au beurre salé” (salted butter caramel pie)and the “éclair au caramel”, to stay in the same taste. (and then i went to another bakery to eat other sweet things)

Quiche of the day: not that great, the egg taste is too stong i think. Then you nearly don’t have any “lardons” and potatoes are also lacking. So it’s more an egg quiche. However the pastry is really good.

Tarte caramel au beurre salé: that’s good. The caramel is really great, salted enough and the thin chocolate mousse softens the taste. The pastry is nice too and crispy enough.
The éclair au caramel: ok, they made a mistake. Not about the pastry, but the service. They gave me the pastry that just came out the fridge. I didn’t ask for a frozen éclair. They should at least know the basic knowledge of the 15 minutes out of the fridge before serving. When i first tried it, the cream inside was too cold and the puff pastry really hard. I had to wait a bit, but still i can’t wait 15 minutes doing nothing in front of the pastry. It’s ok but the “Des Gâteaux et du Pain” religieuse is a way better. The puff pastry isn’t really to my taste, i found it too dry and hard (maybe because it was still cold).
Mocha cold tea: so weird. I’m not a tea drinker, so i don’t know anything about tea, but this is really strange. A little bit sour, really green…I’m still trying to figuring out if i like it or not.

It was nice to find some good French pastries, but unfortunately those two were the only one i wanted to try, so i need to find something else for next time.

Count 800 TWD for this.

Sadaharu Aoki
Bellavita B2
MRT: Taipei City Hall

Green Lemon Shortbreads

22 Jul

To continue with green lemon~ You can keep them 2 weeks. I took the recipe from Mercotte (what would i do without her ^^).

Ingredients (~40 biscuits):
– 170g butter
– 120g of ice sugar (40g + 80g)
– 2 green lemons
– 1 vanilla sugar
– 250g of flour
– 2 soup spoons of cornstach
– sea salt

Wait for your butter to be at room temperature and then mix it with 40g of ice sugar until you get a cream. Then add your 2 green lemon zests, the lemon juice and the vanilla sugar. While miking, sift progressively the flour and cornstach, add the sea salt.

Make 2 sausages with your pastry with the diameter you want for your biscuits ( between 3/5cm), roll them in shrink-wrap and put 15mn in your freezer.
Preheat your oven to 180°C.
Cut slices, and put on greaseproof paper.
Cook them for about 13mn, let tehm cool down 10mn, and in a plastic bag, pour your 80g of ice sugar left, your biscuit and shake it!

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Pour continuer sur le citron vert (je deviens une addict du citron). Pratique pour les voyages, ils se conservent 2 semaines. J’ai trouvé la recette sur Mercotte (qu’est-ce que je ferais sans elle).

Ingrédients pour 40 biscuits:
 – 170g de beurre 
– 120g de sucre glace (40+80)
– 2 citrons verts
– 1 sachet de sucre vanillé
– 250g de farine
– 2 cuillères à soupe de maïzena
– gros sel

Attendre que le beurre soit à température ambiante et le mélanger au robot (la feuille, pas le batteur) avec le sucre glace jusqu’à obtenir une sorte de crème. Ajouter le zeste des citrons leur jus. Progressivement pendant que le robot continue de tourner lentement, ajouter la farine et la maïzena tamisée et le gros sel.
Faire 2 boudins du diamètre souhaité pour les boudins (3/5cm), les rouler dans un film plastique, et direction le congélateur pour 15mn.
Faire préchauffer le four à 180°C.
Couper en tranches et mettre sur du papier sulfurisé.
Cuire 13mn, attendre qu’ils refroidissent un peu 10mn, et dans un sac plastique, mettre les 80g de sucre glace restant, les biscuits, et secouer!

The Rubbish Muffin

22 Jul

Why do i call it like that? Haha that’s quite simple, i put all my leftovers inside! I just tried to use green & yellow lemon, praline, almond powder and candied orange peels. I know that i didn’t follow the pastry technics and it might look awful for those who know how to bake, but since i don’t know any technic and still that’s my familly favorite between the 5 cakes i baked, i don’t really care. Well, here is the recipe of my Rubbish Muffin!
What i like (and also dislike) about american cakes, it is that you can nearly put anything inside and mix, and you’ll have something edible. Just like cupcakes and muffins, you use the same pastry as you base, and everything is alright. However, that’s often quite heavy and still the same pastry, so it would be kind of boring to always bake muffins or cupcakes or donoughts (only mix, not even a pastry technic… except for decoration).

Ingredients (10 muffins):
– 80g almond powder
– 1 green lemon
– 1 lemon
– sea salt
– 1 cottage cheese yogourt
– 3 yogourts of flour
– 2 yogourts of sugar
– 1 vanilla sugar
– 1 chemical yeast
– 1/2 yogourt of oil
– praline
– candied orange peels
– butter
– 3 eggs

Pour your cottage cheese in a bowl, add the green lemon zests, the yellow one juice & a half of the green one, sea salt. Then add sugar, vanilla sugar, flour, eggs, oil and the yeast, in this order and mix between each. Add your candied orange peels, leave some for decoration.
Butter your mold (just a wee bit, i didn’t do it but it was ok if you use a knife). Put some almond powder at the bottom (not really uselful but well, it was a way to use it, 2/3 of your preparation, some praline, and cover the last 1/3 with your preparation. Put one candied orange peel on the top. 
Or you can just mix your praline with your almond powder and your preparation, but it’ll be a way heavier.
Preheat your oven to 180°C and cook it for about 25/30mn.

The Rubbish muffins are ready~

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Pourquoi le Rubbish Muffin (muffin déchet)  me demanderez-vous? Parce que j’y ai mis tous mes restes. Comme je pars en vacances et qu’il me restait des ingrédients dans le placard, il fallait bien les finir, surtout que je suis la seule à utiliser ceux-ci. Il me fallait donc une recette avec de la poudre d’amande, du pralin, un citron vert, un jaune, et des écorces d’oranges confites. Et comme je n’ai jamais fait de muffins, je me suis dit que ça ne devait être trop compliqué à faire.
Ce qui est pratique (mais aussi ennuyant) dans les gâteaux américains genre cupcakes et muffins, c’est que c’est un peu la même base de pâte tout le temps, vous pouvez y mettre ce que vous voulez dedans ensuite. Enfin, c’est comme ça que je le vois. Mais souvent ce sont des desserts assez lourds et pas drôle à faire (juste mélanger quoi, sans bain-marie, durée de cuisson précise…).

Je sais aussi que je ne connais pas les techniques de pâtisserie (je ne sais même pas utiliser une poche à douille, la honte) donc la recette va être un peu catastrophique pour ceux qui savent cuisiner je pense. Mais bon, ça se mange, c’est ce qui compte.

Ingrédients pour 10 muffins:
– 1 yaourt de fromage blanc
– 2 yaourts de sucre
– 3 yaourts de farine
– 1 sachet de sucre vanillé
– 1 sachet de levure chimique
– 1/2 yaourt d’huile
– beurre
– 1 citron vert
– 1 citron
– gros sel
– 3 oeufs
– écorce d’orange confite
– pralin (1 sachet)
– 80g de poudre d’amande

Verser le yaourt blanc dans un bol, rajouter les zestes du citron vert, la moitié de son jus et le jus du citron jaune entier. Ajouter le gros sel. Verser le sucre, le sucre vanillé, la farine, les oeufs,  l’huile, la levure dans cet ordre et remuer entre chaque.
Mettre des morceaux d’orange confite, en garder pour la déco.
Beurrez vos moules si nécessaire, verser de la poudre d’amande au fond (pas trop utile, je l’accorde, mais il fallait bien l’utiliser, ça donne quand même un petit gout et c’est plus tendre), 2/3 de la préparation, une couche de pralin et 1/3 de la préparation et rajouter une écorce dessus.
Préchauffer le four à 180°C et cuire 25/30mn.
Autre alternative, vous mélangez tout (poudre d’amande, pralin et préparation), mais c’est plus dense.

Carl Marletti

3 Jul

As planned, i went to Carl Marletti’s pastry shop today. I had to taste the religieuse.

The shop in itself is quite small and with an agreable grey, but it seems that the best shops are always smaller than usual. I really like the neighborhood, it’s very lively.
The salemen are nice, smiling, all dressed in black. The wrapping is also really nice, simple, but nice just like the logo of the shop.

Now the desserts, because that’s why we’re here for. They’re a little smaller than those of Pain de sucre, which is great to finish your lunch without feeling heavy after eating 2 of them.

Lemon pie
rich shortcrust pastry, lemon and preserved lemon cream

This is a great lemon pie but i must say that it was too creamy for me. I prefer it when it’s a little more acid so i prefered the one from Pain de sucre that used both green and yellow lemon, but this one is more like a real lemon pie. My mother enjoyed it so really depends about what you like about lemon pie (smoothness and sweet lemon taste or raw pie and the real taste of lemon). I looked on Internet and as far as i know, this is considered as one of the best lemon pie in Paris, so you should try it.

Marie-Antoinette
Raspberry macaron, raspberry confit, fresh raspberries, rose cream

The macaron was really good, however i think the rose was a little too strong. This may be because we’re not used to the taste of rose, so we notice it really quickly and stronger than the other. However, each layer in itself is really good.

Caraïbe
Milk Tanariva chocolate mousse, passion fruit cream on a coconut praline crunchy

This one is really good and refined. The milk chocolate mousse was delicious and the dessert really light. My father said those are more desserts for tearoom, as they’re so tasty.

Charlotte
Carlotte with a strawberry cream and a rhubarb compote (and maybe some hazelnuts?)

Delicious as well. Unfortunately i can’t find the exact description of this dessert, so it’s not as well described as the others. While eating it, you can really feel all the fruits: first come the strawberry, then the taste of lightly acid taste of the rhubarb, and the mousse. This one is also really light.

Lily Valley
Puff pastry filled with violette cream, violet chantilly with a light blackcurrant/violet compote inside on a flaky pastry. Like a Saint-Honoré (more complex though).

Even if you don’t like violet you will like it. I don’t really like Saint-Honoré because of the puff pastry, but THIS puff pastry is just…Amazing! Tender, with a thin layer of “craquelin” (can’t find the proper translation, sorry) that make it a little crispy. And the cream isn’t too strong so the taste of violet is just as it should be, not too strong. The compote inside the chantilly also add some taste and the tacky pastry is really great too.

Coffee Religieuse
Puff pastry filled with strong coffee cream

Ok, now, let’s start the serious matters…The one that i was waiting for…OMG! The puff pastry is as the one of the Lily Valley, i don’t need to repeat myself about how good it is. But the coffee cream! The color is really different than what i’ve seen, a different marron, less sparkling and with some black grains (of coffee i suppose). This is the best i’ve even eaten. The cream is better than La pâtisserie des rêves. I mean, it goes better with this puff pastry so the allover taste is better than for the eclair.

To conclude, my parents prefered Pain de sucre to end a diner. This pastry shop is more refined than the former one so it’s better for teatime. Some desserts are better than other, but as for me, the religieuse and the lily valley is really worth the little trip.

Just like Pain de Sucre has its Baobab, this pastry shop has its puff pastry.

Carl Marletti
51 rue Censier
75005 Paris
open from Tuesday to Saturday: 10am-8pm
Sunday: 10am-1pm

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Comme prévu, je suis allée à la pâtisserie de Carl Marletti, pour pouvoir goûter la fameuse religieuse. La boutique à la devanture grise (un beau gris clair) est petite, mais j’ai l’impression que les meilleurs choisissent toujours des espaces tout petit. A croire que, plus c’est petit, plus les pâtisseries seront bonnes! J’aime beaucoup le quartier, animé (quartier étudiant oblige). Les serveurs habillés en noirs sont gentils, souriants, professionnels mais peut-être un peu moins décontractés que Pain de sucre. Quant au packaging, il reste très sobre, tout comme la boutique et le logo de la marque d’ailleurs.

Passons maintenant aux desserts, parce que c’est ce qui nous intéresse. Ils sont un peu plus petits, ce qui n’est pas plus mal pour finir un repas sans avoir le ventre trop plein, tout en en mangeant 2.

Tarte au citron
Pâte sablée, crème au citron et citrons confits

Il faut savoir que ces tartes au citron sont considérées comme unes des meilleures de la ville. Elle est très crémeuse, ce qui rend le gout du citron doux. Ma mère a aimé, mais pour ma part, ce n’est pas ce que je recherche en général dans une tarte au citron. Je préfère les tartes avec une pointe d’acidité, avec le goût du citron, du vrai. C’est donc pour ca que j’ai préférée celle de Pain de sucre (au 2 citrons d’ailleurs), moins crémeuse, mais avec un gout plus prononcé. Cela dépend donc de ce que vous recherchez dans une tarte au citron: le gout et l’onctuosité, dans ce cas, celle-ci est parfaite, ou un vrai gout de citron, une tarte plus “brute” si on peut dire, et dans ce cas je vous conseille plutôt Pain de Sucre.

Marie-Antoinette
Macaron à la framboise, confit framboise et framboises fraîches, crémeux à la rose

Ce gâteau-ci…Assez particulier. D’abord, il faut aimer les macarons. Personnellement, les biscuits à macarons ne sont pas mes préférés, je leur préfèrent les pâtes. Ensuite, cela ne tiens qu’à moi, que le goût de la rose est trop prononcé et fait disparaitre celui des framboises fraiches. Peut-être que cela vient du fait que ne mangeant pas souvent de la rose, le goût insolite se remarque tout de suite et devient plus fort. Le confit de framboise est très bon, le macaron aussi. Je trouve donc qu’il y a un déséquilibre entre le gout de la rose et celui des framboises. Si vous êtes fan de roses, allez-y!

Caraïbe
Mousse chocolat tanariva au lait, crémeux fruits de la passion sur un croustillant praliné noix de coco

Celui-ci est très bon et fin. La mousse au chocolat est très légère. Je n’ai pas pu gouter le crémeux fruit de la passion comme j’ai pioché dans l’assiette de mon père sur le côté du gâteau, mais d’après ses dires, c’était très bon.

Charlotte
Je n’ai pas trouvé la description, donc de tête et d’après les gouts: compote de rhubarbe et crémeux de fraise (avec des noisettes?)

Le plus fin des gâteaux du repas. On arrive à sentir tous les fruits un à un: d’abord le fraise, puis le petit goût acidulé de la rhubarbe qui est adoucit par une mousse légère. Un concentré de saveurs. A se demander pourquoi l’appeler charlotte, car ce nom courant ne lui fait pas -assez- honneur.

Lily Valley
Pâte feuilletée, chou à la crème de violette, chantilly à la violette et sa confiture cassis/violette. Un Saint-Honoré, en plus complexe

D’habitude, je ne suis pas très Saint-Honoré, j’aime la crème mais les choux….c’est lourds (oui oui je suis compliquée). Mais ici…CES choux sont à tomber à la renverse! Moelleux mais avec juste une fine couche de craquelin pour les rendre croustillants, et la crème légère à la violette, pas trop parfumée pour que le choux et la crème puissent quand même se sentir. La confiture au cassis dans la chantilly permet de rehausser le goût de cette dernière…C’est délicieux. Je ne me remet toujours pas de la pâte à choux. Pour une fois, de la vraie pâte! Les pièces montées prendraient tout leur sens avec cette pâte là! Je conseille vivement ce dessert, même si vous n’aimez pas la violette!
Le gout est beaucoup moins “chimique” et fort que celui de la religieuse à la violette que j’avais gouté chez Ladurée (j’avais été assez déçue d’ailleurs par cette religieuse).

Religieuse au café
Choux à la crème au café

Maintenant, la raison de mes 3 heures de voyage. Mon dessert par excellence: la religieuse. Je ne m’étalerai pas sur les choux, les mêmes que ceux de la Lily Valley. La crème au café est délicieuse, et la couleur est assez différentes de celles que j’avais pu voir auparavant, plus sombre et avec des grains noirs (de café je suppose). En tout cas, elle reste la meilleure. Je la préfère à l’éclair de La pâtisserie des rêves, car le choux est meilleur et le mélange des deux, sans le chocolat, fait resortir le café.

Ces desserts sont très fins, ils sont donc plus à manger pour une pause ou dans un salon de thé. Les choux valent vraiment le détour.

Carl Marletti
51 rue Censier
75005 Paris
ouvert du mardi au samedi de 10h à 20h
dimanche: 10h à 13h

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