As i came back, i’ve visited Paris a little again to see what has changed in a year and used this opportunity to take some picures. And since i’m leaving again in January, at least i’ll have some pics of Paris now.
One of my friend and I went to Fauchon, as I wanted to try their éclairs. I chose the 14 juillet (National day in France) with a vanilla cream and strawberries. The cream was nice, the puff too, but the colorful cover was too thick and too sweet, which made the éclair too sweet. And for 7€ an éclair, which is overly expensive, that’s pretty bad.My friend tried the praline one.
Furthermore the service is the worse i’ve ever seen. I won’t go back there. Because it’s famous, it has a lot of tourists which means they’ll surely not come back again, the sellers are really rude. Nice shop though. A big disappointment.
Mouhaha Since i have 2 lemon cake, i’ll compare them! That’s going to be fun, because it’ll be the first time that i have actually the same product from 2 different shops. The first one is from Pierre Hermé, and his famous and well-reputated Lemon Cake, and the second one from Des Gâteaux & du Pain, my fav bakery in Paris which also has a woman pastry chef. I wanna see if the famous Pierre Hermé’s lemon cake is as great as said, or if it’s just a myth like Ladurée’s Macarons which are not that great and industrially made (i nearly fell down of my chair when i heard that. I don’t wanna go there anymore -for their macarons-. Fortunately for me, i’m not a macaron lover).
So so so. First of all, they don’t have the same ingredients. Pierre Hermé’s cake has a lot more ingredients: rum, Guérand’s salt, confit lemon, which G&dP doesn’t.
After that, Pierre Hermé’s cake is really smooth and humid, not like the usual cakes. I think it is because of the rum. The lemon flavor is really present. In fact, it’s delicious but not like the traditional heavy “cake” that you have during your trip. Anyway, really good.
Des Gâteaux & du Pain’s cake is quite different. First, you have some kind of jelly on it. I was first surprised, but that’s good. Then the inside is more traditional, drier, but the jelly on the top is perfect to make it not too dry. It tastes more like lemon (not that the other one didn’t, but i mean yellow lemon).
In the end, i think they’re both awesome but i’d rather go the Pierre Hermé’s cake.
This is supposed to be THE bakery, since this guy supplies the best restaurants of Paris in breads. I’ve heard a lot about Eric Kayser bakeries, so i expected a lot. I’ll say that’s quite a disappointment. I mean, the bread is good, yes, better than average, but i’ve tasted better breads from less famous bakeries, so there’re no need to make such a mountain for this bakery.
Of course, you have a lot of choices. That i can’t deny. You have yogourt bread, Curcuma bread, Fig bread, a lot of different baguettes, so you have a lot of choices, and that is great.
I bought 3 breads to try: the Curcuma one, the Fig one and a Paline Baguette.
The Paline Baguette is quite much like a traditional bread, like a couronne. It is great, but something is laking and doesn’t taste as good as the couronne we usually eat. It’s not as crispy as a couronne, and it’s not going to well with the ‘heavy’ crumb. The crust is too soft i personnally think.
The curcuma bread is quite like a bun, soft too, not like a traditional bread. The color is really funny though, all yellow. However, again i’m disappointed by the taste. You don’t taste the flavor of the curcuma at all, only the nuts. I can’t say that’s because i ate something with it and it made the flavors disapear, because i ate it alone.
In the end, you can go for it if you’re looking for different & unusual breads, but it’s not worth making the trip only for that if you go there for the best quality. It’s good, better than average, but that’s all for me.
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Voici LA supposée boulangerie, celle qui fournie les meilleurs restaurants de la capitale. J’avais beaucoup entendu parler des boulangeries d’Eric Kayser, et passant devant, je me suis laissée tenter. Peut-être qu’à cause de ce que j’avais lu, je m’attendais à trop, mais en j’ai été assez déçue par ses pains. Bien sûr, ils sont bons, mais pas de là à en faire tout un fromage.
Bien sûr, il y a un nombre important de pains différents, ce qui est très bien en soit, avec plein de choix de baguettes, des pains au yaourt, au curcuma, aux figues, des tourtes…Pour ça, oui, ces boulangeries ont un gros avantage.
J’ai testé 3 pains: figues, curcuma et baguette Paline.
La baguette Paline a le même gôut que les pains traditionnels comme la couronne, mais la croute n’est pas assez croustillantes pour pouvoir se comparer à une couronne, alors que la mie reste aussi lourde, ce qui rend le pain pas très agréable en bouche. Donc il garde le goût de la couronne sans vraiment l’égaler.
Le Pain Curcuma, allez savoir pourquoi il porte ce nom, sachant qu’on ne sent pas le curcuma mais les fruits à coques. Il ressemble plus à du pain brioché, assez mou, sans croute croustillante. Sa couleur est rigolote, tout jaune, mais il reste fade en gôut.
Le pain au figue restera mon préféré des 3. On sent bien la figue, même si là encore, la croute mériterait à être plus croustillante.
Au final, si vous cherchez des pains inhabituels et différents, c’est bien l’endroit, mais si vous cherchez le meilleur pain de la ville, passez votre chemin. Le pain reste bon, beaucoup mieux que la moyenne, mais certainement pas le meilleur.
My last but not least restaurant in France for a year. Quite sad, but i hope i’ll find amazing food in Taiwan too.
We went to celebrate my last week-end in France to Le Quinze, a restaurant in the XVe arrondissement near Vaugirard (this place is just THE place to eat between Pierre Hermé, Des Gâteaux & du Pain, another Pastry MOF, and restaurants…), in a small street.
You have to know, in Paris, all the best address are always hidden in areas you wouldn’t notice.
All in grey, the room is quite small, cosy and relaxing. The staff also is very nice, there were only 2 people and the woman who served us was really lively. Maybe there was one or two problems when she served because the sauce would moved and the pattern in the plate was a little destroyed, but she was so nice that is didn’t really matter.
As a “Mise en bouche” we had a peas & mint gaspacho with pepper hair, which was really refreshing. We were not really hungry but this made us expected for the following. Their bread is really good. Ok, maybe not cooked enough, but the olives one is just to die for. I finished all the olive breads so the next customers didn’t had any left (no no i didn’t only eat bread i promise!).
My mother, who doesn’t enjoy very much crustaceans, chose the Foie Gras with its Apple Jelly, Porto sauce and Mango-apple Chutney. We all tried the Foie Gras and it was really melting in the mouth.
my father started with a spider crab with Nori seaweed, confit tomatoes & cucumber tartar and vegetables jelly. He liked it very much, and as always, his favorite went for the confit tomatoes (i now can confirm that he’s a tomatoes addict).
As for me, i went for the lobster carpaccio with sesame, wasabi and lemon, and a nice a Nori chips. Really refreshing and light, i was really glad of choice. It was really tasteful, so much that i had to drink a little otherwise i was scared that i would not be able to taste my meat.
We all chose meat for the main dish, as the weather is not really nice, we wanted some real meat to warm us.
I chose the pigeon. Since “Le Vieux Logis”, i discovered that i really like pigeon, so here it goes and what’s more, it was a way to compare both restaurants. It was soft, and melting (i think you’ll hear this everytime but truly, when i go to those restaurant, meat is always so melting and nice~). The main attraction of this dish was the sauce. It was with honey and i loved it. Too bad i couldn’t use my bread to “saucer”. The potatoes were nice too.
My father prefered the calf’s sweetbread (i don’t know why but for me this is a typical dish for male, just like “andouillette”), with mushrooms. Great too, but he found it was a little too big, he would have prefered 2 smaller instead of one big.
My mother, the meat-eater of the family, got her Lozère rack of Lamb with mushrooms and eggpalnt caviar. I don’t need to make any statement: even if she doesn’t like eggplants, she finished everything.
My father and i drank a Château Chauvin red wine, also really nice, not oo strong but as you know, i don’t know anything about wine. It was great with the meat.
Now let’s move to the hardest part to satisfy, i call the desserts! Just before, we had some miniardises: Pistacchio muffin (the pistacchio~…), the grenadine marshmallow (no need to have teeth, neither a tongue) and a lemongrass jelly, banana/Cointreau mousse with maple petals.
Chocolate for my mother, Orange mille-feuille for my father and red fruits with gingerbread ice-cream for me. Really good, that’s actually the first time that i’m not disapointed by a dessert in a restaurant, but i know that i wouldn’t have been as happy with the 2 other one. The chocolate mousse from my mother dessert was great, but the white chocolate pastry (that had the same consistence as the red bean pastry in japanese pastries), was quite strange and tasteless.
The orange dessert was like eating a real orange, really good, but orange isn’t my piece of cake so i’m glad i didn’t choose it.
You can count around 230 euros for 3 with 1/2 bottle of wine and meat (count around 30euros more if you prefer fish instead).
Le Quinze Lionel Flury
8 rue Nicolas Charlet
I went there for a lunch with my friend. I first wanted to try Bob’s kitchen, but August being the worst month to go out because everything is closed, we ended up here. The atmosphere is really nice, you have an open view, some sofa, an old black&white movie is projected on the walls, they sell dvds…
We both ordered l’Assiette du jour which consisted of a rocket salad with one mozzarella and two slices of ham ans a kind of pesto (there was basilica, lemon, and oil but it was not the real taste, i don’t really know what it was). Well, for 15 euros i’d say that you pay for the place, because a lettuce is still a lettuce, whatever the way you put it even if it’s bio. The mozzarella was not that good, i have better at home. Kind of disappointing.
La Cantine Merci
111 Bd Beaumarchais
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Je suis allée là-bas pour un déjeuner avec une amie. Le lieu est sympa, on trouves des fauteuils, des tables basses, un film en noir et blanc est projeté au mur, ils vendent des dvds…
Nous avions toutes les deux choisi l’Assiette du jour qui consistait en une salade de roquette, une mozzarella et quelques tranches de jambon de pays avec une tranche de pain (ok, assez bon le pain) et un genre de pesto, le tout pour 15 euros. Entre nous, ça m’a fait mal de mettre 15 euros dans une salade, qui reste toujours une salade de roquette, peu importe la façon dont on voit les choses, même si elle est bio. Je comprend qu’on paye bien entendu pour le cadre sympa et parce que ça fait bien de mettre ce prix pour une salade bio quand on est bobo. Mais cela reste assez décevant.
La Cantine Merci
111 bd Beaumarchais
Pierre Hermé…I don’t know what to think about him. He’s worldwide reknowned and the master that made people interested in pastries again. Sure. However, his pastries are not always that great, and neither are his chocolates…
I have already been to his shop for Christmas, to buy a “Bûche Mont-Blanc à ma façon”, and we were quite disappointed, but mainly because we paid the wrong price (or more because they made a mistake in the cakes and we got one smaller). So since then i had quite a negative image of his pastry shop, because it screw up my Christmas day.
However, since Laurent Duchêne, a pastry MOF (MOF stands for Meilleur Ouvrier de France= Best French Craftsman, a prize in each craft that happen every year. Only one person (by craft) receive the price each year, for all his life. This prize is reknown by everyone, both everyday-people and craftsmen and means that the holder of the prize masters his art), was closed, my parents went to Pierre Hermé to buy cakes and chocolates. They chose:
Tarte Infiniment Vanille (Infinitely Vanilla Pie)
rich shortcrust pastry, biscuit soaked in vanilla juice, vanilla white chocolate ganache (yeah, a white chocolate with vanilla taste), vanilla mascarpone cream
This cake…has become my top 2 after the religieuse au café! It is hard to digest, i recognize (that is a first for me to say), but maybe that’s because we eat a 8 people cake with 3 people only… I have to try the same one but with coffee taste. I think the pastry was with almonds, but what i really enjoyed were the different textures of the cake. You had the mousse, the ganache that was like chestnut purée but with vanilla taste and a thin layer of white chocolate mousse that covered the top. The vanilla taste was explosing in my mouth. He used different kinds of vanilla to have this taste. Really, this one was worth coming back.
Lemon Biscuit with olive oil, cooked and raw red berries, lemon mousseline
This one was great, but not well-balanced. We hardly felt the red berries because the lemon was a way too strong. It was like eating a lemon pie, so the name and the appearances were totally tricky.
However, the lemon taste was really great in itself. It’s just that it was a little useless to put berries inside if we can’t feel them.
Ah, and i think that the meringues were too sweet so i didn’t really enjoy eating them, but they were really beautifully made and the inside was well-made, without any bubble of air. (Yeah, i know, i’m hard to satisfy…)
The chocolates. I don’t have a picture of them, but they were a way too sweet and even salted? They didn’t feel like real and strong chocolate. Last time we took some, it was also the same. So i don’t recommand to go there for the chocolates. Out of the 3 cakes, one was really worth, the two remaining are ok, but i prefer those of Pain de sucre of Carl Marletti.
185 rue Vaugirard
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Pierre Hermé…Je ne sais pas trop quoi penser de ses desserts. Il est reconnu dans le monde pour avoir redonné sa place à la pâtisserie dans le monde de la cuisine, je suis d’accord, mais je ne trouve pas que ses pâtisseries soient si particulières en moyenne, sans parler de ses chocolats.
J’avais déjà été à sa boutique à Noël pour acheter une bûche “Bûche Mont-Blanc à ma façon” mais l’erreur qu’ils avaient commis en boutique nous donnant un gâteau plus petit pour le prix du gros m’était resté en travers et avait pourri mon Noël. J’en étais donc sortie avec une mauvaise impression.
Cette fois-ci, comme Laurent Duchêne était fermé, mes parents sont retournés chez Mr Pierre Hermé pour acheter les gâteaux et des chocolats. Ils ont pris:
Tarte Infiniment Vanille
Pâte sablée, biscuit imbibé de jus de vanille, ganache au chocolat blanc à la vanille (oui oui, c’est bien ça, vous avez bien lu), crème de mascarpone à la vanille
D’accord, celui-ci passe en top 2 après la religieuse au café. Je dois essayé la version café plus tard quand même. Il est assez difficile à digérer par contre (c’est bien la première fois que je dis ça d’un gâteau), mais c’est peut-être parce qu’on s’est mangé un gâteau pour 8 à trois… Il me semble que la pâte est aux amandes. J’ai particulièrement apprécié le jeu des textures: la mousse, légère, la crème qui ressemble à de la crème de marron au niveau de la texture, et la fine couche (de mousse?) chocolat blanc qui recouvre le dessus du gâteau. Il faut aussi savoir qu’il a utilisé plusieurs vanille pour donner ce goût explosif en bouche. Celui-ci vaut vraiment le détour.
Biscuit au citron à l’huile d’olive, fruits rouges crus et cuits, mousseline de citron
Celui-ci était bon, mais mal équilibré. On ne sentait pas du tout les fruits rouges le goût du citron étant vraiment trop prononcé. Ça donnait un peu l’impression de manger une tarte au citron en fait. Donc l’apparence était très trompeuse. Il n’en reste pas moins que le citron était bon, mais je ne vois pas l’intérêt de mettre des fruits rouges et de lui donner cette apparence si c’est pour ne pas les sentir.
Ah, et j’ai trouvé les meringues trop sucrées, malgré leur belle apparence et le fait qu’elles soient bien pleines sans trop d’air. (oui je suis difficile et alors?).
Quant aux chocolats, aucun intérêt. Ils n’avaient pas le gout prononcé du vrai chocolat (on aime le fort dans la famille, et moi le lait) et ils étaient limite salés. Par contre, le croustillant à l’intérieur était sympathique. Enfin, ils devraient plaire au plus grand nombre si on n’aime pas le chocolat fort. La dernière fois que nous en avions pris, c’était la même chose.
Au final sur 3 gâteaux, il n’y en a un qui vaut vraiment le détour, les autres sont bons, mais je préfère ceux de Pain de sucre et Carl Marletti.
185 rue Vaugirard