Tag Archives: lemon

Sweet tea 2

7 May

I finally got the see the new shop of Jean-Paul Hévin in Taipei 101. It doesn’t seem to have open yet, but i’ll definetely try it.

This week in Sweet tea, i tried the small lemon cake and its candied lemon, the strawberry jam financier, the apple tatin tart and the sugar tart. 

The small lemon cake is nice, but nos as good as the on of Pierre Hermé. Indeed, you have this lemon flavor and the candied lemon is very nice, but it’s a little too dry and heavy compared to PH lemon cake, so it’s more difficult to eat an dnot as enjoyable. Howver the taste is really good. It just depends what you’re looking at when you eat a cake. I would put it between Pierre Hermé and Des gâteaux & du pain in second position.

Then,the strawberry jam financier. The jam is delicious, one of the best i’ve eaten, you feel the strawberries under you teeth and the flavor is really strong, it’s totally different from the industrial ones. However i prefer the mix almond-caramel than almond-strawberry jam.

The sugar tart. I didn’t know what it was first, but in the end it’s a big “palmier” but in a tart shape. The outside is a little crispy and the inside is soft. It’s sugar, for sure, there’s like asugar syrop that makes it impossible to cut the tart. It’s a really good “palmier”, but i am not perticularly fond of this viennoiserie.

The apple tatin with a vanilla whipped cream quenelle. Again the vanilla cream has this different taste (i would swear there is alchool in it but it’s impossible) which i don’t really enjoy. The apple tatin is really nice.You can feel the apples and the caramel which is not too strong and doesn’t overcome the apple flavor. The apple are not too cooked and purée-like which i like. I just wonder what kind of dough they used because it seems different than the usual puff pastry, but maybe that’s becaue of the way of cooking it…

Overall, i prefered last week fruit tart and caramel financier.

Lalos – again and again…-

6 Mar

After trying all their cakes (marble, orange, banana, fruits), and most of their breads (ciabatta, ciabatta with olives, seaweed ciabatta, olive oil ciabatta, ciabatta with herbs, garlic bread, cheese bread, bacon bread, longuet, ficelle, baguette, cramberry bread, grape bread, whole bread, cereal bread,…and i think that’s all for breads) , the bakery is developping new ones, so i can have some fun! And ruin myself even more!

This week, they created the onion bread. Hum, mine was too cooked so it spoiled the onion flavor a little, but it smelled damned good. I would also add more onion to stronger the flavor, but i love onion in general, so that might also explain why it’s not string enough for me.

Another one was the soft cristallized lemon bread. What i loved is that there was real lemon inside, which gave a really ince flavor. However the bread was a little too soft (you can’t cut properly it it you don’t have a bread knife), but i know that Taiwanese people prefer soft bread, so the company has to adapt itself to their taste.

I also tried a Pain au chocolat: really nice. The chocolate taste is here, with the 2 stripes, and the pastry puff is crumbly, but not too much, so that you don’t loose your “pain” in crumbs and end up eating only half of it. However the croissant was not as good as the pain au chocolat. The pastry puff is a little too compact and not melting enough (but i guess this has to do with the butter).
So if you have the choice between the two, i would recommand the pain au chocolat over the croissant.

They also improved their honey bread, making a soft version of it for Taiwanese (since they don’t seem to enjoy real bread).
If you have foie gras, the best choice is the Cramberries bread, very good with a nice sweet taste which matches perfectly with it.

Each week you have special offer: last week, with their new honey bread, you had a slice of their banana cake, this week you have a discount if you buy the onion bread.

Cloudy Cupake

10 Dec

Cupcakes. The first i really try. I’m not usually fond of those cakes, but i had to try some at least. So I picked the coffee one, and a French custard (to not say lemon custard).

The lemon one is quite nice, even though i think that the cream is too heavy (but i think that’s normal, i mean it’s like American chantilly which is a way heavier than French one).

The coffee one however is an absolute not good. It doesn’t taste like coffee at all. Really disappointed by this one.

In the end, if you want a sweet treat, you can try the fruit ones i guess, that’s ok.Count around 70 TWD for a cupcake.

Cloudy Cupcake
Eslite Basement
Xinyi Area

MRT: Taipei City Hall

Salon de thé Robuchon

3 Dec

Maybe i was expecting too much of this salon de thé, i don’t know, but i must beforehand tell you that the review is gonna be quite harsh. After all, Robuchon is a cook, not a pastry chef, i might have forgotten that on my way… What a big disappointment. I won’t go there again.

The shop is nice, like the restaurant, and the staff also nice. They smile a little when i said that i wanted the 2 person set for myself, but they didn’t say anything. The customers are mainly foreigners or English-speaking Taiwanese (each time i go to restaurant i seat near Taiwanese that always speak in English, strange isn’t it?…)

The set for 1040 TWD, includes 2 pastries, 2 macarons, 2 drinks and 2 madeleines. Or so they said: i had financiers instead of madeleines…hum they should do what’s written or at least inform the customer before: First mistake.
On the website it’w written they have Coffee Religieuse (the main reason i came), and they hadn’t (not because it was already sold out, just because it wasn’t the season anymore): Second mistake for a salon de thé of this level. It takes 2 minutes to change your menu on your website.
So i chose a tiramisu and a lemon pie, with 2 espresso. What’s nice is that they ask you if you want your 2 espressos at the same time or one after the other.

Espresso, like in the restaurant, they were nice and it’s always a pleasure to have nice coffee once in a while here.

The lemon pie. I think the jelly layer they use to protect the cake (i don’t know its name) was too thick, it spoils the lemon custard. This was nice, but i would have prefer it with a stronger taste. Then you had a mousse inside. It was nearly tasteless. The little insert of lemon was nice, that was the only thing that had a lemon taste strong enough to call the pastry a lemon pie. And the pastry dough was again tasteless. It usually have some almond taste, or a taste, but here it didn’t have anything special. Maybe because it wasn’t cook enough or because the cake was too cold? I don’t know, but the lemon pie wasn’t strong enough.

The tiramisu. Nice in look, but so not convenient to eat. The chocolate layer was too hot, so the chocolate was soft. What was unacceptable was that my pastry was damaged on the top. It either means the pastry was not well-conserved since it was made, or that they had a problem while tempering the chocolate. For the price, in both way i can’t tolerate it. The mascarpone cream was light, but again, bland. Concerning coffee, it had some taste, the biscuit was well impregnated, but i would have expected a stronger coffee taste. And the chocolate made it difficult to eat it, so you couldn’t eat all the layers at the same time (which is bad, as if in a mille-feuilles you couldn’t eat all the layers at the same time). There was too much mascarpone for the coffee, that’ why the overall was not strong enough. My mother’s one is a way better, and i’ve tasted a lot better one elsewhere.

The financiers: too dry. Nothing else to say.

The cannelé. OMG, what a horror. Where did they see that it had so many blisters after being cooked? There was definitely a problem in the way it was heat: the inside was nearly not cooked, while the outside was too cooked. And i don’t talk about the Rum. Where was it? A Cannelé is based with rum, and here the rum was really behind. You could taste it, but i had to focus on it, that was the opposite of the one i had in L’Assiette, what was a way better, or even my mother’s ones. This was a total failure for me.

Luckily for them, they have awesome macarons. Coconuts and Violette one were my favorite. The Coffee one is ok, and the mango not strong enough for me, but maybe it was too cold again (cold kills taste, that’s horrible, you can’t eat pastries if it’s too cold).But they’re even more expensive than Pierre Hermé’s macarons that are the most expensive of Paris, so don’t make me laugh, 80 TWD (2 euros) for a macaron, that’s only because it’s called macarons that they can show those prices.

So as you saw, i was really disappointed. Everything is in the design, the look, but the taste is far behind good pastries in France. Sadaharu Aoki’s pie was a way better. The breads aren’t worth neither compared to Lalos as i already tried them in the restaurant. If you want to show off around foreigners and wealthy people, go there, but if you’re interested in good pastries, well, go to the basement instead and eat at Sadaharu Aoki. That’s all i can say.

This is an average pastry shop with of high quality pastries prices.

Salon de Thé Robuchon
Bellavita 3F
MRT: Taipei City Hall


18 Sep

Mouhaha Since i have 2 lemon cake, i’ll compare them! That’s going to be fun, because it’ll be the first time that i have actually the same product from 2 different shops. The first one is from Pierre Hermé, and his famous and well-reputated Lemon Cake, and the second one from Des Gâteaux & du Pain, my fav bakery in Paris which also has a woman pastry chef. I wanna see if the famous Pierre Hermé’s lemon cake is as great as said, or if it’s just a myth like Ladurée’s Macarons which are not that great and industrially made (i nearly fell down of my chair when i heard that. I don’t wanna go there anymore -for their macarons-. Fortunately for me, i’m not a macaron lover).

So so so. First of all, they don’t have the same ingredients. Pierre Hermé’s cake has a lot more ingredients: rum, Guérand’s salt, confit lemon, which G&dP doesn’t.

After that, Pierre Hermé’s cake is really smooth and humid, not like the usual cakes. I think it is because of the rum. The lemon flavor is really present. In fact, it’s delicious but not like the traditional heavy “cake” that you have during your trip. Anyway, really good.

Des Gâteaux & du Pain’s cake is quite different. First, you have some kind of jelly on it. I was first surprised, but that’s good. Then the inside is more traditional, drier, but the jelly on the top is perfect to make it not too dry. It tastes more like lemon (not that the other one didn’t, but i mean yellow lemon).

In the end, i think they’re both awesome but i’d rather go the Pierre Hermé’s cake.

Green Lemon Shortbreads

22 Jul

To continue with green lemon~ You can keep them 2 weeks. I took the recipe from Mercotte (what would i do without her ^^).

Ingredients (~40 biscuits):
– 170g butter
– 120g of ice sugar (40g + 80g)
– 2 green lemons
– 1 vanilla sugar
– 250g of flour
– 2 soup spoons of cornstach
– sea salt

Wait for your butter to be at room temperature and then mix it with 40g of ice sugar until you get a cream. Then add your 2 green lemon zests, the lemon juice and the vanilla sugar. While miking, sift progressively the flour and cornstach, add the sea salt.

Make 2 sausages with your pastry with the diameter you want for your biscuits ( between 3/5cm), roll them in shrink-wrap and put 15mn in your freezer.
Preheat your oven to 180°C.
Cut slices, and put on greaseproof paper.
Cook them for about 13mn, let tehm cool down 10mn, and in a plastic bag, pour your 80g of ice sugar left, your biscuit and shake it!

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Pour continuer sur le citron vert (je deviens une addict du citron). Pratique pour les voyages, ils se conservent 2 semaines. J’ai trouvé la recette sur Mercotte (qu’est-ce que je ferais sans elle).

Ingrédients pour 40 biscuits:
 – 170g de beurre 
– 120g de sucre glace (40+80)
– 2 citrons verts
– 1 sachet de sucre vanillé
– 250g de farine
– 2 cuillères à soupe de maïzena
– gros sel

Attendre que le beurre soit à température ambiante et le mélanger au robot (la feuille, pas le batteur) avec le sucre glace jusqu’à obtenir une sorte de crème. Ajouter le zeste des citrons leur jus. Progressivement pendant que le robot continue de tourner lentement, ajouter la farine et la maïzena tamisée et le gros sel.
Faire 2 boudins du diamètre souhaité pour les boudins (3/5cm), les rouler dans un film plastique, et direction le congélateur pour 15mn.
Faire préchauffer le four à 180°C.
Couper en tranches et mettre sur du papier sulfurisé.
Cuire 13mn, attendre qu’ils refroidissent un peu 10mn, et dans un sac plastique, mettre les 80g de sucre glace restant, les biscuits, et secouer!

Pierre Hermé

18 Jul

Pierre Hermé…I don’t know what to think about him. He’s worldwide reknowned and the master that made people interested in pastries again. Sure. However, his pastries are not always that great, and neither are his chocolates…

I have already been to his shop for Christmas, to buy a “Bûche Mont-Blanc à ma façon”, and we were quite disappointed, but mainly because we paid the wrong price (or more because they made a mistake in the cakes and we got one smaller). So since then i had quite a negative image of his pastry shop, because it screw up my Christmas day.

However, since Laurent Duchêne, a pastry MOF (MOF stands for Meilleur Ouvrier de France= Best French Craftsman, a prize in each craft that happen every year. Only one person (by craft) receive the price each year, for all his life. This prize is reknown by everyone, both everyday-people and craftsmen and means that the holder of the prize masters his art), was closed, my parents went to Pierre Hermé to buy cakes and chocolates. They chose:

Tarte Infiniment Vanille (Infinitely Vanilla Pie)
rich shortcrust pastry, biscuit soaked in vanilla juice, vanilla white chocolate ganache (yeah, a white chocolate with vanilla taste), vanilla mascarpone cream

This cake…has become my top 2 after the religieuse au café! It is hard to digest, i recognize (that is a first for me to say), but maybe that’s because we eat a 8 people cake with 3 people only… I have to try the same one but with coffee taste. I think the pastry was with almonds, but what i really enjoyed were the different textures of the cake. You had the mousse, the ganache that was like chestnut purée but with vanilla taste and a thin layer of white chocolate mousse that covered the top. The vanilla taste was explosing in my mouth. He used different kinds of vanilla to have this taste. Really, this one was worth coming back.

Lemon Biscuit with olive oil, cooked and raw red berries, lemon mousseline

This one was great, but not well-balanced. We hardly felt the red berries because the lemon was a way too strong. It was like eating a lemon pie, so the name and the appearances were totally tricky.
However, the lemon taste was really great in itself. It’s just that it was a little useless to put berries inside if we can’t feel them.
Ah, and i think that the meringues were too sweet so i didn’t really enjoy eating them, but they were really beautifully made and the inside was well-made, without any bubble of air. (Yeah, i know, i’m hard to satisfy…)

The chocolates. I don’t have a picture of them, but they were a way too sweet and even salted? They didn’t feel like real and strong chocolate. Last time we took some, it was also the same. So i don’t recommand to go there for the chocolates. Out of the 3 cakes, one was really worth, the two remaining are ok, but i prefer those of Pain de sucre of Carl Marletti.

Pierre Hermé
185 rue Vaugirard
75015 Paris

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Pierre Hermé…Je ne sais pas trop quoi penser de ses desserts. Il est reconnu dans le monde pour avoir redonné sa place à la pâtisserie dans le monde de la cuisine, je suis d’accord, mais je ne trouve pas que ses pâtisseries soient si particulières en moyenne, sans parler de ses chocolats.

J’avais déjà été à sa boutique à Noël pour acheter une bûche “Bûche Mont-Blanc à ma façon” mais l’erreur qu’ils avaient commis en boutique nous donnant un gâteau plus petit pour le prix du gros m’était resté en travers et avait pourri mon Noël. J’en étais donc sortie avec une mauvaise impression.

Cette fois-ci, comme Laurent Duchêne était fermé, mes parents sont retournés chez Mr Pierre Hermé pour acheter les gâteaux et des chocolats. Ils ont pris:

Tarte Infiniment Vanille
Pâte sablée, biscuit imbibé de jus de vanille, ganache au chocolat blanc à la vanille (oui oui, c’est bien ça, vous avez bien lu), crème de mascarpone à la vanille

D’accord, celui-ci passe en top 2 après la religieuse au café. Je dois essayé la version café plus tard quand même. Il est assez difficile à digérer par contre (c’est bien la première fois que je dis ça d’un gâteau), mais c’est peut-être parce qu’on s’est mangé un gâteau pour 8 à trois… Il me semble que la pâte est aux amandes. J’ai particulièrement apprécié le jeu des textures: la mousse, légère, la crème qui ressemble à de la crème de marron au niveau de la texture, et la fine couche (de mousse?) chocolat blanc qui recouvre le dessus du gâteau. Il faut aussi savoir qu’il a utilisé plusieurs vanille pour donner ce goût explosif en bouche. Celui-ci vaut vraiment le détour.

Biscuit au citron à l’huile d’olive, fruits rouges crus et cuits, mousseline de citron

Celui-ci était bon, mais mal équilibré. On ne sentait pas du tout les fruits rouges le goût du citron étant vraiment trop prononcé. Ça donnait un peu l’impression de manger une tarte au citron en fait. Donc l’apparence était très trompeuse. Il n’en reste pas moins que le citron était bon, mais je ne vois pas l’intérêt de mettre des fruits rouges et de lui donner cette apparence si c’est pour ne pas les sentir.
Ah, et j’ai trouvé les meringues trop sucrées, malgré leur belle apparence et le fait qu’elles soient bien pleines sans trop d’air. (oui je suis difficile et alors?).

Quant aux chocolats, aucun intérêt. Ils n’avaient pas le gout prononcé du vrai chocolat (on aime le fort dans la famille, et moi le lait) et ils étaient limite salés. Par contre, le croustillant à l’intérieur était sympathique. Enfin, ils devraient plaire au plus grand nombre si on n’aime pas le chocolat fort. La dernière fois que nous en avions pris, c’était la même chose.
Au final sur 3 gâteaux, il n’y en a un qui vaut vraiment le détour, les autres sont bons, mais je préfère ceux de Pain de sucre et Carl Marletti.

Pierre Hermé
185 rue Vaugirard
75015 Paris

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